Into Thin Air
What factors had caused Lobsang Jangbu to push himself to exhaustion both below and above camp four?
Lopsang jangbu
Sherpa
Lopsang jangbu
Sherpa
Factors that caused Lobsang Jangbu's exhaustion were as follows; his request to climb without supplemental oxygen, and his insistance on short roping, which is a technique used to help climbers, who were inexperienced, climb to higher altitudes.
One of the first people I passed when I started moving again was Scott Fischer's sirdar, Lobsang Jangbu, kneeling in the snow over a pile of vomit. Both Lobsang and Boukreev had asked for and been granted permission by Fischer to climb without supplemental oxygen, a highly questionable decision that significantly affected the performance of both men, but especially Lobsang. His feeble state, moreover, had been compounded by his insistence on "short-roping" the celebrity amateur, Sandy Pittman, on summit day.
“Short roping” is a technique designed to help inexperienced climbers reach altitudes higher than they could achieve by their own efforts.
Into Thin Air